The Chef: Dave Beran
His Restaurants: Pasjoli and Dialogue, both in Santa Monica, Calif.
What He’s Known For: Matching classical technique with out-of-the-box thinking. French-leaning menus driven by Southern California produce.
OVER THE PAST couple years, chef Dave Beran has opened two radically different restaurants in Santa Monica, Calif. First there was Dialogue, an 18-seat spot serving envelope-pushing tasting menus. Then, this fall, with Pasjoli, he veered off into an à la carte menu of Parisian bistro classics.
Distinct as the two restaurants are, at both of them Mr. Beran’s cooking celebrates Southern California’s produce and natural environment. Versions of this pan-seared red snapper with a leek and broccoli ragout have appeared on both menus. “Along the Malibu coast in early spring, broccoli, celery and lilac flowers bloom everywhere,” said Mr. Beran. “At Dialogue we spritzed the ragout with lilac essence and flaked in snapper.” At Pasjoli he opted for a more robust riff, minus the lilac spritz and served with a crisp-skinned snapper fillet.
In this recipe, streamlined for home cooks, Mr. Beran calls for cooking the leeks until they are sweet and meltingly tender. The broccoli goes in at the end. “That way it stays fresh, clean and a little toothsome,” he said. Warming and cozy as this dish is, it still delivers an invigorating dose of California sunshine.
TOTAL TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4
6 thin leeks, white parts only, split lengthwise and julienned
6 tablespoons butter
1½ cups white wine
1½ cups water
Pinch cayenne pepper
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups finely chopped broccoli florets
¼ cup diced celery
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
4 (4-ounce) red snapper fillets, skin-on
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
⅛ cup celery leaves
⅛ cup parsley leaves
1. Set a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add leeks and 3 tablespoons butter to pan and sauté until leeks are soft and translucent, about 4 minutes. Add wine and water and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until leeks are very tender and sauce thickens, about 15 minutes.
2. Add cayenne and season with salt. Bring back to a simmer and add broccoli. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter and cook 2 minutes more. If ragout looks dry, add splashes of water. Stir in celery and sauté until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in lemon zest and season with lemon juice and salt.
3. Season fish with salt. In a large nonstick sauté pan, heat 3 tablespoons oil over high heat. Once hot, lay in fish, skin-side down, and sear until skin is crisp and fish is cooked ¾ of the way, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, flip fish and add 2 tablespoons butter. Continue cooking off the burner, using the pan’s residual heat, until fish is flaky and cooked through, 1-2 minutes, depending on thickness.
4. Serve fish over ragout, and garnish with herbs. Drizzle with more olive oil and season lightly with salt.
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