Good morning. I wrote a column for The Times this week about a sandwich that came out of the borscht-belt Catskills in the 1950s and that still inhabits the menus of diners in Brooklyn and down the south shore of Nassau County on Long Island: thin-sliced, Cantonese-style char siu married to Italian-American garlic bread beneath a veil of sweet-sticky duck sauce. “The ultimate assimilation crossover food” is what the food writer and radio host Arthur Schwartz called it when I interviewed him about it, a taste of illicit exoticism, unkosher and delicious in the extreme.
You can make the sandwich with store-bought char siu, of course, but my recipe (above) calls for a homemade variety because not everyone has a Chinese barbecue place down the block. (Also, homemade char siu is easy to prepare and, if you use top-flight pork, it’s juicier and more flavorful than anything you can find at the market.) Just layer the meat onto your favorite preparation of garlic bread, and add a drizzle of duck sauce — for that, I use leftover packets from Chinese takeout orders or make my own with apricot preserves cut through with vinegar. Some people add a slash of hot mustard. Others fresh pickles, or coleslaw. It’s tummler food. It’ll have you laughing and thinking, all at once. Make that sandwich this weekend, please!
Other ideas for what to cook in the next couple of days: cheese grits with saucy black beans, avocado and radish. The galbijjim I learned to make from Peter Cho at Han Oak in Portland, Ore. (If you want to play varsity ball, try smoke-roasting the vegetables and short ribs on your grill, instead of making them in the oven.) Pearl couscous with creamy feta and chickpeas Some really big, really crisp pancakes, oh my.
The idea is simply to try something new, something slightly ambitious, something to knock you out of your routine and alert you to the fact that change is possible, that deliciousness can be a regular part of your life, that you can deliver to your family and friends a taste of the new: coconut-braised chicken thighs with turmeric and peppers, perhaps; or the double chocolate cookies known as chocolate extremes.
I like the idea of making tofu makhani this weekend. Some pork gyros could be good as well. Caramelized citrus on yogurt! Enchiladas with beans and cheese! Maybe this is the weekend to start your journey into the world of sourdough bread. Or just to make soup.
Thousands and thousands of other recipes to cook this weekend stand waiting for you on NYT Cooking. Yes, you need a subscription to access them. Subscriptions support our work and make it possible for us to keep doing it. Thank you for yours!
Further inspiration may be found on our social media accounts: on Facebook, for instance, and on Instagram, too. You’ll find links to our news articles and restaurant reviews on Twitter. And of course we’re on YouTube — go there to watch us make an apple ombré pie.
Housekeeping: We’re here if something goes wrong with your cooking or our technology. Just write cookingcare@nytimes.com. We will get back to you.
Now, speaking of things going wrong, the cast of “Derry Girls” was on “The Great British Bake Off” recently. I haven’t seen the full episode, but the trailer’s more than promising.
It has nothing to do with pudding or pork rinds, but you should read Jonathan Mahler on Rudy Giuliani, in The New York Times Magazine.
Also, Evan Malmgren on van life, in The Baffler.
Here’s an accounting of a curious bank robbery in Norway, in one of the northernmost towns on Earth, by David Kushner in Outside.
Finally, the great Jon Pareles. Thanks to him, let’s have Devon Gilfillian play us off today, with his excellent new single, “Unchained.” I’ll see you on Sunday.
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January 17, 2020 at 10:30PM
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What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times
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